.jpg)
.jpg)
Nature Photography-Page One
Why Nature & Wildlife Photography?
FOREWARD:
Unlike our forefathers, who worked and lived with nature, our experiences with the outdoors are primarily vicarious. It is illusory- but a fleeting moment. And since we don’t spend at great deal of time outside, we are somewhat removed from Nature. As our technology advances and the enjoyment of life’s simple pleasures shrinks, still-life cameras, and motion picture cameras take us outdoors with vivid, compelling, and intensely encompassing images and sounds. For deep within us, ancient and primordial sensations reside. By connecting our ‘natural” selves with Wildlife; pictures and movies keep us in touch with this Truth. They enrich our lives beyond words.
INTRODUCTION:
Field of Dreams-You could probably fill a warehouse with all the information, materials, and basic photography equipment for nature and wildlife photography. For this reason, we have synthesized the most important aspects to this field in a concise manner. In doing so, we visited many photo and camera web-sites and sources. After we discuss the main topics, we provide you with colorful photographs, and links to the major sources for camera reviews, nature photography, wildlife photography, and photographic supplies & equipment.”
This article is organized into 14 Topic Headings. The 14 Topic Headings are: 1) Top 6 Camera Reviews, 2) 43 Expert Tips for Shooting Outdoors, 3) Six Tips for Buying & Using A Digital Camera, 4) Nature & Wildlife Photography Workshops, 5) Top 7 Colleges & Schools for Outdoor, Nature, & Wildlife Photography Classes, 6) Most Popular Nature Photography Locations, 7) National Nature Photography Contests, 8) Top 7 Nature & Wildlife Photographers, 9) Major Styles of Nature Photography, 10) Occasions when a “Photo Opportunity” occurs, 11) Selling Your Photos On-line, 12) Related Product Categories, 13) References & Resources, and 14) Footnotes & Endnotes.
(We’ve also added award winning photos to the right margin of pages 1 and 2 for your enjoyment.)
Due to the length of this article, our web-site displays just the first 4 pages of the full article. You can download the entire article, as a .pdf document by clicking on the Acrobat graphic to the right. Thank you. We wish you luck in your photographic endeavors.
. CAMERA REVIEWS-
Top 6 Outdoor & Nature Photography Camera Manufacturers - Film & Digital Cameras:
-
Canon-- Four models are worth mentioning: a) the new 2007 PowerShot Pro TX-1 Digital Camera (1) or b) the Rebel K-2 film camera, c) the EOS 50-D Digital SLR Camera, ($1,399) or d) the PowerShot SX-110 IS. The predecessor of the SX-110 IS is the Canon PowerShot A590 IS Digital Camera. See distributor’s link at: CompUSA-Camera Reviews
-
For film cameras, try the Canon EOS IV, 35 mm camera. (Price: $2,900). A new addition to the celebrated Canon EOS System, which includes several significant innovations in durability, performance, and customization, targeted for a new market. A reader’s review is as follows: “The IV is simply the best 35mm film camera ever made - at current 2nd hand prices; it will outperform any digital camera. The build quality is tough and durable; this machine will work anywhere in any climate - your only worry will be durability of the film in the most extreme conditions. The ergonomics are fantastic - it simply operates as an extension of your hand. The photo quality is 2nd to none - while it takes some getting used to, once you get the knack, you can run the camera in manual mode on auto pilot - it is the ‘true thinking man’s’ camera. Don't forget the custom functions - you use them once and it makes the camera much more easy to use. I have taken my IV all over the world and I have absolutely no regrets.” Mft.rs Link is: Canon EOS IV at CanonUSA.Com
-
The New Sony A-300 & the A-350 (2) : The A-350 lets you capture breathtakingly beautiful photos, rich in color and image detail. An array of advanced features assures maximum image quality with optimum ease.
Both of the newer D-SLRs, the A-350 and A-300, offer simple operation and amazing versatility.
The A-350 features the first-ever 14.2-megapixel image sensor. At 14.2-megapixel resolution, it is the highest resolution possible in a D-SLR. So, in addition to the best-in-class resolution of a 14.2-megapixel (effective) CCD sensor it also has the powerful performance of Sony's exclusive BIONZ™ image processing engine. Image stabilization is built right into the camera body with Super SteadyShot™. Sony’s revolutionary new Quick AF Live-View™ allows you to quickly frame your subject in the LCD monitor. So, you can shoot without even using the optical viewfinder, just like you can with a compact digital camera. And for the first time ever on a digital SLR, it delivers a top-notched image without sacrificing the accuracy of typical SLR-class TTL (Through-The-Lens) auto focusing.
The otherwise identical A-300 features a 10.2-megapixel CCD sensor. Like all Sony D-SLRs, both of these new models can use a wide range of Sony™, Zeiss™, and Minolta™ Maxxum lenses. Manufacturer’s Link is: Sony A-350 Digital at SonyUSA.Net -
Nikon- Nikon CoolPIX Hunting Camera System, which includes either the CoolPIX L6, or the SLR Digital CoolPIX S600, and/or the legendary F6 Autofocus film camera ($2,810.00* for body only), and lastly, the Nikon D-60 with many special outdoor shooting capabilities. The manufacturer’s link is: Nikon D-60 from NikonUSA.Com
-
Olympus -Olympus Stylus 720-SW, (Old Model), or the Olympus D-550 (Old Model), and newer Model SLR E-3 Digital Camera ($1,600 for Body), or the Evolt™ E-500 Digital SLR which has special outdoor features. Manufacturer’s link is: Evolt E-500 from OlympusAmerica.Com
-
Pentax Optio Wpi, the Pentax Optio W-20, or the Pentax K-20D (3) . Main benefits of the K-20D are: an excellent choice for outdoor photography, rugged, dust proof and weather-resistant construction, a built-in sensor-shift Shake Reduction System™ that works with all lenses, an effective dust-control system, a high-performance Pentax PRIME™ imaging engine; 3 fps shooting and more. The Pentax K-200D features 10.2 megapixels resolution. This D-SLR has many of the advancements that are incorporated in the PENTAX K-20D, including a 2.7 inch LCD monitor. It also features Custom Image™ Functions for perfect control over how images are developed, and an Expanded Dynamic™ Range function. The K-200D also comes with Shake- Reduction. Both the K-20D and the K-200D are compatible with any PENTAX lens ever produced. The PENTAX K-200D offers: a higher quality image sensor with the sophisticated PRIME (PENTAX Real Image Engine), a user-friendly Dust Removal system including the new Dust-Alert™ feature, 11-point SAFOX VIII auto-focus system, sophisticated 16-segment multi-pattern metering; and auto-sensitivity control up to ISO 1600. The PENTAX K-200D also comes with a weather and dust resistant body. Mft.rs Link is: Pentax K-200D at PentaxSLR.Com
- For an Innovative Camera Design go to the Gear Junkie for his review of the Digital GoPro Hero 3.
2. Top 43 expert tips or skills for wildlife, nature, scenics, and landscape photos-
Overview-
Becoming a good photographer takes time. It sometimes takes years to master all of the facets of photography. Taking great photos requires a level of intensity that at times is exhausting. Professional photographers are like high speed computers, analyzing all of the factors-lighting, scenery, composition, etc., all at
once, in order to make that “great shot.” Many professional photographers become obsessed in and by their work, choosing a style or method of setting up the shot and processing of the images. This sometimes takes days or even weeks for him or her to complete. Above all, taking great photos involves the intensity of seeing Life, as if it was for the first time. If you are a beginner or an amateur photographer, you may want to perfect your skill in just one area of photography, such as lighting or composition. Once that skill becomes “second-nature,” you can then concentrate on another area of photography.
Here Are Our 43 Tips-
1. Introduction- Basic or General Rules-
-
It doesn’t matter if you are shooting a digital point and shoot or a film point and shoot camera, the tips below will work for both kinds of cameras.
-
Hold It Steady- The problem with most photographs is that they are blurry. Avoid “camera shake” by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest or close to your body, or even use a wall for support. Brace yourself; perhaps hold your camera with both hands. Lean against something, use a tripod. Relax and don't tense up.
- Body position- While shooting it is advisable to hold your breathe and squeeze the shutter gently rather than pressing it with a jerky motion. Keep your arms against your sides; your elbows shouldn’t be sticking out. All the above will help you in preventing camera shakes that produce blurred pictures.
2. Setting Up the Shot/ Photo Composition-
Balancing the Elements-There are four main concepts to keep in mind when composing the scene artistically- a) Perspective & Proportion, b) Depth & Distance, c) Subject Matter, and d) Timing, Lighting & Zoom.
Below are the details regarding these 4 photo elements:A. PERSPECTIVE & PROPORTION
-
Perspective-Choose whether to shoot vertically or horizontally- A common feature found among many amateur photographers is that they seem to use their camera in only one way. Most often, the horizontal plane is used. But many pictures would look attractive if they are shot by turning the camera in a different direction. So, consider whether the subject would look most attractive; if photographed horizontally or vertically.
-
Try a couple different angles & then find the Best Camera Angle –Tilt the camera a little bit, shoot from a high vantage point, get down really-low, and shoot some vertical frames; and then maybe a couple of horizontal frames. Factors to consider are: the size of your primary subject, surrounding points of interest, the terrain, and the direction the light is coming from. Paying attention to these factors will help you choose what angle is the best for your photo.
-
Camera Orientation is an easy and effective compositional tool. A vertical format enhances height; hence use it to shoot subjects like canyons, cliffs. A horizontal format enhances the width, so use it to shoot large stretch of water, vast open fields, or deserts.Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (redwoods, waterfalls), a vertical format will emphasize height. For example, use a horizontal camera angle to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
-
Consider your viewpoint or vantage point- Don’t assume that your eye level or the first place you see your subject from is the best viewpoint. Taking a few steps left or right, going down on one knee or standing on a step can make a significant difference.
- Position the Horizon- Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon.
Use Proportion-. The beauty of an image is often in its proportions.
(Rule of Thirds) – Make use of “the Rule of 3rds.” When first setting up the shot and “framing” the photo, start with the rule of thirds which teaches that the main elements of a composition should be placed at points one-third of the way from the sides of the frame. Imagine a tick-tack-toe grid on your view finder or a 3 X 3 grid. If possible, do not place the main subject in the center of the frame. Place the key element(s) at the intersections of the 3 X 3 grid. Place your Main Subject in the third of the grid either from the lower left or bottom right, etc. For horizons, place the horizon along the lower or upper horizontal line, never in the center of the frame. Some say that the most powerful location is at the lower right intersection point.B) DEPTH & DISTANCE-
-
Add Depth - Depth is an important quality of good photographs. In other words, good photographs include a sharp and unmistakable image of the object in the foreground, and an interesting visible background. So, both the foreground and the background of a picture must be planned or visualized. Great photographs tell the viewer that they're not looking at a flat 2-demensional photo, but through a window into a three-dimensional world. If your primary subject is a distant mountain, by including a swatch of trees in the foreground, the overall photo will have the proper presentation. A wide-angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
-
Distracting Depth of Field (4) - Sometimes, when you set your camera to automatic, the camera’s auto-adjust doesn’t compute or “see” the background correctly. To get the best results, you need to make the background adjustments. If you take your photos on a small aperture setting, the camera’s lens increases the depth of field around the subject, and the background becomes a blurry distraction. It is better to set the widest aperture setting you can. This narrows the depth of field, concentrating the focus on the animal or nature scene. This will also allow a faster shutter speed, which helps to freeze a moving subject.
-
Take the Camera off Full-Automatic – Use your camera’s different shooting modes such as landscape, outdoors, night, sports, etc. Your camera will still adjust the settings for your but now they will be biased towards the type of shooting you’re doing.
C). SUBJECT MATTER-
-
Compose Creatively & Try to Balance the Elements of the Photo- When you are photographing the sights of your outdoor venture, use your analytical skills and your creative skills in composing the photo. This means purposely planning how you organize the various elements in each photo in a new or different way.
- Two of the biggest concerns in photography is either not getting close enough to the subject; or getting too close to the subject. For example, if you are photographing a giraffe, and you think the giraffe’s nose is a great thing to shoot, just having the nostrils in the photo won’t give your viewers the information they need to understand the photo. The best photos give just the right amount of information about the subject, clearly and sharply, to make the photo both interesting and intriguing.
Close-Up or Back Away?
Single-Subject Shots
-
Not Getting Close Enough to the Subject is a Major Problem, especially when you center your subject but even when you off-center it, moving in close will make a big difference. The simple fact is the audiences are always more impressed when the subject is huge and impossible to miss. Therefore, you want your subject to almost fill the entire frame. Say, you are photographing a swan, but you don't have a lakeshore (or its equivalent supporting element) in the background. In this case, you will want to instead move in as close as you can. Causing the entire frame to be mostly filled with the “Main Subject” will inevitably result in a photo that has true impact on your viewer.
-
Move in close enough to remove any clutter from the picture. For example, you may see an owl in the trees, but your photo turns out to be all trees and no owl. In wildlife photography, the 'less is more' approach is often best. Ask yourself what is important for your photo, and eliminate everything else. If you look at most wildlife shots, they don't show the animal’s whole body so you don't need to either. Move in close; fill the frame with just the face. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter. So, in other words get as close as possible to the subject, and/or zoom in with your largest lens. This will eliminate the distraction of the background and the viewer's attention will be entirely on the subject itself.
-
But on the Other Hand, Getting Too Close To The Subject Is An Issue. When the opportunity arises to get a good close-up, some people go a little too far. A good wildlife photo needs a little space around the subject; otherwise, your composition can look cramped, with the animal squashed into a space where it doesn't quite fit. In these situations, try zooming back just a little, to allow a little 'headroom' around the animal. There should be at least a small amount of space above the head, and on each side. If the animal is facing to one side, adjust your composition so that there is a little more space in front of the subject than behind it. That way the animal will be looking into the picture, not at the edge of the frame.
-
Frame the Subject & Fill the Frame, with your subject so that there is no doubt in the viewer’s mind what the picture is about. If you are taking a picture of an animal or a plant, zoom in until only the animal’s face or the leafy texture of the plant will fit in the view finder. If you have to explain that the gray blob in your photo is an elephant then the picture has failed.
-
Position Your Subject- If possible; position your subject to either look directly at the camera or look slightly above the camera, or slightly to the side. The idea is to capture an expression on the face of your subject and not to do a “mug shoot.”
-
Align your Subjects properly with the use of the correct lens. Avoid keeping the point of interest in the picture around the frame edge.
- Off-Center Your Main Subject- If you think of the cliché, ‘each picture tells a story’, then the relationship of your main subject to nearby objects is clearer. A good photo illustrates that relationship. For this reason, you want to include more than just one subject in the photo. One of the best ways to show how the objects in the photo relate is by off-centering subject #1 either to the left or right; other subjects or objects fill in or support the Main Subject in a complimentary way. In other words, instead of a single Main Subject centered-in-the-scene; with a lot of dead space around it; either move the subject or move the camera until the subject is off to the side. This relationship works especially well if you can balance your main subject with something in the background, on the opposite side of the picture. For example, if you are photographing a tropical plant, put it on the right with the remainder of the garden (or an equivalent supporting element) blurred softly in the background on the left. This will result in a photo that both records the plant in all its beauty and does so in an artistic, creative way.
Multiple Subjects or Points of Interest
-
Points of Interest- Don’t have too many points of interest in the photo. Try and keep only one central theme of interest. Having too many interest points distracts the viewer’s eyes. The photo ultimately loses its focus or impact.
-
Check the background- Look at the space around and behind your subject and make sure nothing overpowers it in color, shape, or size. Because too many background images can be distracting, make sure that the background of your photo doesn't struggle for a lot of attention. Most of the time, photographers pay too much attention to the main subject of the photo without giving enough thought as to what is going on in the background. Oftentimes the background greatly influences the presentation of the main subject.
-
Search for Details or Unusual Perspective- It's always tempting to use a wide-angle lens and get everything in the picture. However, this can be too much, and you may loose the impact of the photograph. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a big tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is a little more powerful.
-
“Find,” “choose” or “ strategically place” Supporting Objects - Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take, but after a while, they cease to be exciting to look at. This is because the eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a prop or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery. Include in your shots a familiar object, people passing by, or your photographer buddy, to add interest. If there isn’t anything of interest or an object to give the photo some depth or perspective, put your shoe in the foreground. That should generate some comments.
-
Make sure eyes are in focus- Focus on the eyes when photographing people or wildlife. It doesn’t matter if other features are out of focus; if the eyes aren’t sharp, the image will fail.
-
Pay attention to the subject’s color- The subject’s cloth colors shouldn’t be overpowering the physical presence of the subject being primarily shot. (i.e. A red jacket on a sunburned skier may blur out the details of the subject’s face.) While shooting scenes with too many colors, it is necessary to identify and “filter out” what needs more attention versus what doesn’t.
-
Look for some good patterns in nature and lay emphasis on it. For example, look for patterns made by flora, edges of mountains, or sand on beaches. These elements could appear amazing if you frame your subject wisely in coordination with them.
-
Use Leading Lines such as the horizon, fence-lines, trails, roads, ditches, or lines of trees to give an added depth perspective, such as looking “down the road”, “across the horizon, or “along a string of trees.” (You get the picture.)
-
Close-up photos of nature, flowers, and greenery usually turn out very well. Some clouds are also very camera-friendly and give a sense of balance to the images.
-
“Mix it Up” A Little- You may take the greatest shots, but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice-up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close up and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. The field of outdoor photography is huge- there are an innumerable number of interesting items to choose from. Ask yourself the question: “ Is this scene or object worth remembering?” If so, shoot it!
D. TIMING, LIGHTING, FLASH, & ZOOM
Timing-
- Shoot First, Ask Questions Later- If your subject is an animal giving birth - you know that, within a split second, the scene can change. There are often just a few brief moments when that "magic moment" appears. That's why it is so important to be fully prepared to capture that moment when it happens. Of course, this means having your camera with you and the batteries fully charged... After all, you can't capture the moment if you don't have your camera with you and ready to go. However, even more than having your camera easily available, you must learn to be assertive with your picture-taking. Be ready to press that shutter button at a moment's notice, anticipating when the magic moment will happen. If you have a digital camera that suffers from a bit of a delay when taking the picture, then you will have to become even more intuitive and skilled at anticipating the moment.
LIGHTING-
- Where and What Kind of Light Sources Are Available:
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The sun is your main light source when shooting outdoors. However, it is a good idea to move around so that the main light source is behind you and to one side. For close-ups, or when your main light source is weak, use the flash. This bi-directional lighting, when used properly, brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
- What kind of Day, or What time of Day to Shoot?
We all love to get out and about on sunny days, but these are not necessarily the best conditions for a good photo. Noon is the worst time to take photographs, as the light is harsh and very bright. Shooting in the middle of the day, under a blinding sun, tends to wash out the details in a picture. The hot sunlight produces shadows where you many not want them- in particular across the face of the subject. It makes people squint and casts dark shadows on the people or objects you're photographing. So, when the light is shining directly from above, most of the face and the entire underside of the subject is lost in dark shadow. The solution? If it is a sunny day, take your photos early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the sun is at a lower angle. You will also find that the light in early morning or early evening has lower contrast and warmer colors, which adds character to the whole photo. For outdoor shots, early morning and evening are the best times to get great natural light. Try to use available light and no flash as much as possible. Flash shots often look harsh & grainy.
Shooting on a partly-sunny day, when there are a few big clouds in the sky, is a good day-time option, as it gives photographers various shades and hues of color, which can be picked up by the camera. Partly cloudy days (when there are more clouds than sun), is another good day-time option. The light is even and the contrast is low. The diffused light of a cloudy day can work better for some subjects because it reduces almost all of the glare and heavy shadows of bright days.
-
Shoot during the “Golden Hour” Is Best (6) - The first hour immediately after sunrise and the hour prior to sunset (even a good 15 minutes after sunset) are commonly known as the “Golden Hour” for photographing landscapes or subjects outdoors. During the “Golden Hour,” the light from the sun hits the earth at a low angle, making your pictures pop with beautiful, warm colors. Keep your camera steady in low-light situations like this, and take lots of pictures; the light changes dramatically over the course of just a few minutes. Sunrise or during Sunset presents the best light for producing stunning photographs. Sunrise light is warm, soft, and provides more pale tones, while sunset is a little harder & cooler, providing deeper tones.
-
It is Important to Remember that Light Changes Throughout the Day- The color, quality, and direction of light change throughout the day. Pay attention to how the light is falling on your subject and select a shooting position that makes the most of the natural light. This will enhance your subject. This can sometimes mean having to wait or returning at another time when the light is better.
-
Don't Eat Yellow Snow; Don't Photograph Blue Snow (7) - If you go out photographing snowy outdoor scenes, most camera meters will be fooled into underexposing your picture. Instead of nice, bright white snow, a bluish cast will give your snow scene an extra cold feel (and an unnatural look). To solve this problem adjust your exposure time by 1 or 2 stops.
- Look for Reflections or Shadows- One the quickest and easiest ways to add an artistic touch to your outdoor photos is to focus on capturing reflections rather than the object itself. Simply keep an eye out for interesting splashes of color, reflected from the receding rays of the sun, or the moon and the stars. Rainy days are good days to look for reflections. A soft rain falling on a lake, the mist rising over the horizon- these are the kind of photos that suggest the essence of the nature without being direct and explicit. You can also look for interesting shadows and other graphic elements. Or you can include out of focus trees, to give your photo an evocative, unique background.
FLASH-
-
Flash-. The flash, when not used outdoors during bright daytime, may result in photos with dark and featureless faces. This happens because your subject is standing between you and the sun, which is a very bright source of light. So, when the camera meters the exposure, it decides that it has to make the scene darker in order to be correctly exposed. This results in your subject's faces being dark and almost impossible to differentiate (8) . On bright days, when you are shooting outside, use the flash to fill in animal’s faces or to highlight the texture of plant leaves. If the subject is backlit by the sun or another light source, use the flash to prevent the photo from being a “silhouette” or with the details “blacked out.”
- Flash need not be relegated to indoor, night photography. Flash can be a big help when it comes to shooting outdoors during the day. Even in bright sunlight, forcing your flash to fire can often mean the difference between a so-so snapshot and an eye-grabbing masterpiece. This “bright-day-flash” will fill in the shadows and even-out harsh contrasts.
ZOOM-
- Use the Correct Zoom –Using proper zoom and taking close-ups photos of some subjects is also important. One of the biggest mistakes that many photographers make is having too much space above the head, left and right sides of the subject. This usually affects the quality of the photo; zooming in a little bit closer to focus on the subject and eliminating all unwanted parts of the picture, could improve this.
Point-and-Shoot cameras have two types of zooms, optical and digital. Don’t use digital as it lowers the quality of the image. You can always zoom in more once you get the image in your computer. Optical zooming will result in better images.
3. BE PREPARED & OTHER TIPS-
-
Plan Ahead: Charge Batteries and Clear Cards or Buy Film (9) -The last thing you want to have happen is to get all set up for the big picture and then you realize you forgot to charge the battery. In addition to making sure your batteries are charged (or you have replacements on hand), you will also want to make sure you have a place for your potential images to be recorded. If you shoot digital, offload and archive your images so you can free up space on your flash memory card. If you use a conventional, film-based camera, be sure you have an extra roll or two of film on hand. Either way, being prepared will make those once-in-a-lifetime moments that much easier to capture.
-
Research your destination before departure- Spend some time researching your destination before departure. A little preparation is all it takes to avoid turning up at a place the day after a weekly market or annual festival and being told how wonderful it was.
- Know your equipment- Ensure you’re completely comfortable with your kit. Many photo opportunities don’t repeat themselves and missing the moment because you’re trying to figure out how the camera works is frustrating and avoidable.
How to Take Great Pictures: The Basics
(You can get the whole article at Shutterfly.Com by clicking & downloading here)
4. FINAL POINTS TO TAKING GREAT PHOTOS -
-
Take Pictures– That’s right, take pictures. Lots of them, get to know your camera. Give yourself assignments to photograph one subject (like street signs) or one area (your backyard). Get out, do it, and have fun!
-
Above all, it is a matter of patience. You need to spend as much time as possible with your “subject,” and take a lot of photos. Expect most of them to be rubbish, but take delight in the good ones because they are hard to come by. In particular, watch the behavior and movements of the wildlife you are shooting. Try to anticipate what their next move might be and prepare the camera and yourself for the shot. The trick is to try to catch the moment that expresses something unique to set your photo apart from millions of others. You won't get that perfect shot every time, but when you do it is a moment to treasure.
-
Bad Timing is always an Issue. Animals move, they blink, they turn their heads, they flap their wings; sometimes it seems they are on a mission to foil your best attempts at a good photo. In every wildlife encounter, there are a thousand opportunities to take a bad photo, and maybe one or two opportunities to take a good photo. A nature photographer learns to be ready for that perfect moment.
Click to download our entire article
The best outdoor film is available only at:www.lomography.com/filmshop
FOOTNOTES:
(4) http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/gear/first-look/pentax-k20d.html or,
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/gear/cameras.html
(5) (Sources: Andrew Hudson; http://away.com/photo/tip-sheet/ten-tips.html)
Related Gorp Article: “What makes a Great Photo?” at: http://away.com/photo/tip-sheet/great-photo.html
(7) Source: http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/tips.asp
(8) Today, almost all digital cameras come with a little built-in pop-up flash unit that enables you to light up your subject even though the camera may be metering for the bright light source.
(9) (Sources: Richard I ‘Anson is the International Manager of Lonely Planet Images and is author of “Travel Photography: A Guide to Taking Better Pictures,” which can be purchased at Lonely Planet.com:Lonely Planet Store-Travel Photography.& Reference Guides.
(10)http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2007/apr/12/top10.photography.tips AND,
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/travelstories/author/lonely_planet_images/)
(11) For more information, check out Article Dashboard.Com, for a listing of more great photo tips.
Other Great Pages to view: Great Outdoor TV Shows | Other Outdoor Media | Great Outdoor Books | Great Outdoor Magazines | Great Outdoor Posters
Nature & Wildlife Photography | Nature & Wildlife Photography Page 2 | Professional Nature Photography